The Road, Cultural Resource Inventory IX

In the 330 square miles of San Simon valley south of I-10 there are only 3 paved roads, Highway 80 (running north/south) Portal Road (running from Highway 80 west to Portal and the Chiricahua mountains, and Highway 9 (running from Highway 80 east to Animas), all other roads are dirt and have changed over time.  Old dirt road tracks are easily identified, being 2 tracks, which differentiates them the earliest "roads" which were single tracks suitable for foot and horse traffic.

Roads and their locations in many cases evolved from game trails to human foot paths connecting cultural centers and water sources which, as the traffic increased with the movement trade goods and people eventually became larger and more established allowing horses, carriages, and eventually automobiles.  In most cases these early culturally derived roads were supplanted by designed roads which followed straighter paths and the early roads were lost.  In the San Simon valley several lines of evidence suggest there was an early road running the length of the valley from Mexico north which has been lost.

1. Distribution of large archaeological sites representing large villages and trading centers.
2.  Early maps and Spanish descriptions of forays into the San Simon valley, as part of New Spain.
3.  Early maps of US explorers pushing westward to the west coast.
4.  Original land surveys of the area.

Archaeological sites of large villages are known along the San Simon valley.  Perhaps the best known site is at the San Bernardino wildlife refuge.  With springs and perennial water a number of sites were identified within the refuge boundaries.  Further north along the valley the Ruben ruin (a late Animas phase site) lies on the west side of the San Simon riverbed, east of the drainage from Horseshoe canyon.  Scattered every 8-10 miles these ruins represent larger occupation sites that would have had contact with one another along a "road" or trail.  This also explains the density of archaeological sites found along the riverbed, they predominate the east bank while the west bank has fewer sites in the vicinity of the estate (personal observation).

Early Spanish explorers in the area noted a number of "roads" connecting occupation sites and frequently the Spanish themselves used these sites for Presidios.  For example San Bernadino had a short lived presido and "roads" leading from the Presidio was used in the Spanish attempts to control the Apache.  This link shows an map of Spanish exploration including the San Simon valley during the period of 1779-1785.  Two expeditions,  The Vildosola of 1780 and the Peru expedition of 1784 traveled along the valley and would have utilized the "old road" connecting native settlements.   Early maps produced during the Spanish colonial period portray the area with varying degrees of accuracy until after the Mexican American war and the subsequent Gadsden Purchase as shown in the video below.

Perhaps the most notable map from the 19th century of the area showing "roads" was produced by the Mormon Battalion when they passed through on their way to the west coast in 1846 - 1847.  A Coyote road or bandit trail was marked running north/south through the valley just east of San Bernardino.  This "road" parallels the modern designed road, Highway 80, but its location was unknown until recently.

Enlarged section of the Mormon Battalion map showing the coyote road running up the San Simon valley.  Map courtesy of Project Gutenberg

Recent searches of the BLM General Land Office records uncovered an 1883 survey map of the township (T.28S., R.21W.) which includes most land encompassing much of the Painted Pony Resort and the future town of Rodeo NM.  This survey was commissioned by Epitacio Sandoval in 1882 at the cost of $650.00.  The resulting map shows several interesting features, the most important being the location of an early "road" along the east side of the San Simon Riverbed.  By the time the first topographic map of the area was produced in 1917 traces of the old "road" were missing but the town of Rodeo was well established.

1883 township map which includes the Painted Pony Resort and the town of Rodeo NM, north is up on the map.

The outline (red) of the Painted Pony Resort on the 1883 township survey map superimposed on satellite imagery showing the location of the early "road" along the San Simon Riverbed, north is up on the map.

The 1917 topographic map showing no evidence of the early "road" along the San Simon riverbed and only 2 tracks of modern dirt roads, north is left on the map.

The discovery of the 1883 township map neatly ties together early maps and descriptions of a road running along the San Simon valley with current land use and maps of the area.  While no traces of this early "road" have yet been discovered, the location of the presumptive Post Classic Mimbres hamlet ruin on the east side of the San Simon is explained the early "road" running along the riverbed as well as other sites such as the Trinchera at the mouth of Antelope Pass.  In addition, if the early "roads were controlled by the drainage patterns then other "roads" may exist along these drainages.

Addendum:  After scaling the township map and carefully placing the overlay on Google Earth evidence of the "old road" became apparent south of Rodeo.  A winding faint track was observed leading south from the "old road" on the township map along the San Simon riverbed.  The presence of a visible track lends support to the idea that this early "road" was the main thoroughfare along the valley.  Subsequent township mapping of these areas did not take place until after the turn of the century and no evidence of the "old road" was found.

A faint winding track which may represent a continuation of the "old road" along the San Simon riverbed.

 

Cultural Resource Inventory VIII, the First Land Patents.

 One of the missing pieces in the cultural resource inventory is information on the original European settlers on lands comprising the Painted Pony Resort.  Specifically, who filed the first land patents on acreage around the resort.  A search of the General Land Office records (GLO) turned up several names of individuals who patented land parcels that now comprise the estate.  Three names, Asa O. Garland, John B. Garland, and John W. M. Cornforth all applied for land patents in the early 1900's on lands now comprising the estate.  The foundations of 2 of these homesteads have been recovered, one belonging to Asa O Garland and one belonging to John W. M. Cornforth (both of these homesteads appear on the first topographic map of the area published in 1917).  The homestead on the parcel originally patented by the Cornforth's was notable for an electric range burner found among the scattering of artifacts and foundations.  This is consistent with notion that this particular homestead was in existence until the late 1950's when rural electrification reached the valley.  The Cornforth's are buried in the Rodeo cemetery and his marker may be viewed here.  Although no information on ownership of the specific parcel with the main houses has yet been uncovered, further research may locate the original patent applicant as well as patents for the eastern portion of the estate.

Previous cultural resource inventory posts:
http://bloggingfromthebootheel.blogspot.com/2013/04/cultural-resource-inventory-1.html
http://bloggingfromthebootheel.blogspot.com/2013/04/cultrual-resource-inventory-ii.html
http://bloggingfromthebootheel.blogspot.com/2013/05/cultural-resource-inventory-iii.html
http://bloggingfromthebootheel.blogspot.com/2013/05/cultural-resource-inventory-iv.html
http://bloggingfromthebootheel.blogspot.com/2013/05/cultural-resource-inventory-v-mimbres.html

Forty acre parcels with the names of the original settlers and locations of homesteads.

Cultural Resource Inventory V: A Mimbres Post Classic Hamlet

The earliest evidence of habitation found on the the Painted Pony Ranch and Resort is a small 30 room presumptive Mimbres hamlet.  At first glance the site appears nothing more than a mass of rocks (photograph 1) but closer examination revealed several stone room outlines with 2 different orientations (photograph 2).  The possibility of a habitation site along the San Simon River was reinforced by an examination of water flow patterns along the riverbed as seen on Google Earth (photograph 3).  Water from the San Simon and the Chiricahua mountains (Horseshoe canyon, Sulphur Canyon, and Cave Creek Canyon) met just upstream of the current location of the hamlet.  This would have ensured a water supply for agricultural activities along this segment of the San Simon River.  A simple survey, using GPS, was initiated on the site locating evidence of room corners and identifying room block outlines (photograph 4).  The room outlines were in 2 distinct orientations.  Three rooms (yellow) were orientated at about 50 degrees while the more numerous room blocks (red) were orientated almost due north.  This is consistent with the reorganization phase of the Mimbres culture after 1150 CE where field houses (yellow rooms) were enlarged and new buildings erected (red room blocks) as the Mimbres moved out of the large villages and dispersed across the landscape.

A number of circular rock features were also observed on the site and when mapped these circular rock features appeared to delineate another room block (photographs 3 and 5).  Mimbres structures were stone whereas other cultural groups relied on adobe as a building material.  A room block with only corners of stone suggest a transition in local building styles in the post classic period in the San Simon Valley.  Either due to possible decreased labor costs in adobe walled buildings or a local adaptation to building techniques used by other cultural groups (perhaps Hohokam) during the reorganization phase.

In addition to presumptive room blocks, 2 clay pits were identified next to the hamlet where material for walls and pottery was mined.  Two digging tools were found in association with these clay pits, both large modified flakes which would allow easy removal of clay used in siding stone walls (photograph 6).

Although no diagnostic pottery was recovered from a surface search, shell, scrapers, and flaking cores were recovered.  The lack of ceramics suggests this site was either a short term occupation or was occupied by a group with little material goods.

Panorama of hamlet. The small rise denotes the hamlet location.

Room outline approximately 15' x 18'.  The yucca may mark the location of the rooms center post.

Drainage patterns upstream of hamlet.

GPS locations showing room block outlines and other features.

Circular rock feature forming part of a room block outline.

Clay pit with in situ digging tool.

Cultural Resource Inventory IV

Evidence of prehistoric occupation around the Painted Pony Resort is widespread.  Evidence of Mogollon (including Mimbres), Hohokam, Casas Grande, and possibly Trincheras cultures may be found throughout the San Simon valley.  This intersection of cultural influences in the valley is reflected today in the native (Pima to the west, Zuni and Apache to the north), hispanic, and anglo cultures who now occupy the boot heel of New Mexico and southern Arizona.  As an intersection of cultural groups through time the San Simon valley offers insights into cultural interactions not found in areas with a single predominant cultural group and thus offers unique perspective on prehistoric cultural interactions.  While the Dynamics of Southwest Prehistory is a recent attempt to integrate information about prehistoric cultures of the southwest into an overall conceptual framework, the more localized approach such as the Malpi Borderlands is more appropriate for those trying to understand land use and occupation through time along the San Simon valley.

An example of documented land use in the San Simon valley, the graph below shows the distribution of pottery types on a large ruin in the San Simon valley versus time.  Found along a north/south route through the valley, this ruin was part of a network of sites occupied in the past.  Using a simplified contextual seriation technique allows the occupation to be dated from 1200 to 1350, a span of about 150 years which is consistent with ground stone wear patterns on metates found on the site.  Beginning at the end of the Mimbres reorganization, or after, this Animas phase site demonstrates the cultural influence from from a number of surrounding groups as demonstrated by differing pottery types.

Although little painted pottery is found on the 320 acres of the Painted Pony Ranch (Gila black on white was documented from the property), the distribution of an abundance of stone tools found on the property suggest a number of small occupation sites existed during this late prehistoric period.

Cultural resource inventory III
Cultural resource inventory II
Cultural resource inventory I

Cultural Resource Inventory III

Prior to the 1917 topographic map of area, the San Simon Valley was utilized primarily for cattle.  The best known operator in the area was the San Simon Canal and Cattle company, although other ranches grazed cattle throughout the valley.  Established in 1885 and surviving until 1920 the San Simon Canal and Cattle company was founded by James Harrison Parramore and Claiborne Walker Merchant.  While the open grasslands were inviting to ranchers, water was always an issue.  The approach utilized by the San Simon Cattle company was to gain control of local water resources while ignoring the open grasslands.  Since open range was the rule, this approach allowed the cattle company to use forage on the public domain while not incurring any liability for the land upon which its' cattle grazed.  While maximizing investment return the long term consequences for the landscape were negative but this approach allowed them to stock between 20,000 and 30,000 head of cattle in the valley during this period.

The time frame between the establishment of corporate ranches and the Gadsden Purchase the Chiricahua Apache were the predominant group living on the landscape.  This period is may be best characterized as one of conflict between the US government and those indigenous peoples living on in the area.  The end of this period of conflict was in 1886 with the surrender of Geronimo at the mouth of Skeleton Canyon. 

Evidence of the Chiricahua Apache may still be found on the landscape, although no evidence of occupation has been found on the Painted Pony Resort, a granary of sticks and mud enclosing a small shelter cave exists on the east side of the Chiricahua mountains near a narrow canyon with other evidence of occupation which likely dates from this period.

As Spain, then Mexico, and then the United States claimed the area maps were produced by each party claiming the area and were used in treaty negotiations.  A number of these maps were compiled into a video as part of the inventory showing the relationships between current landmarks and the landscape as visualized by the mapmakers of the time spanning the period from the late 1700's to the first territorial map produced in 1857.

Cultural resource inventory II
Cultural resource inventory I

Cultrual Resource Inventory II

The Painted Pony Resort and Ranch currently encompasses 316 acres of high New Mexico desert.  The 80 acre resort estate was built, owned, and occupied by a software entrepreneur, John Mcafee, while the rest of the property was part of a wolf sanctuary.  Previous to its subdivision the land was part of the Ned Hall cattle operation which operated until the passing of Ned Hall in the 1990's.

Prior to becoming part of a cattle operation there is evidence the land was farmed.  Old fence lines and the foundation of a house are still visible on the southern end of the property.  Evidence for farming as opposed to ranching is in the form of 2 pieces of farm equipment still on the property.  A baler sits at the entrance to the resort expansion on the east side of Painted Pony Rd and a hay rake was discovered in the riverbed.  In addition to an old wind mill a 23' hand dug well still exists just north of the homestead, see below.  This homestead is shown on the 1917 topographic map of the area and the discovery of an electric range burner  in the foundation of the home site is consistent with the house existing after rural electrification which reached Rodeo and the San Simon valley in 1953 (Jr. Gomez, personal communication).  Based on these observations, a farm existed for at least 35 years in this location.  Farming in the boot heel of New Mexico with its arid climate was the result of a series of homestead acts which allowed citizens to claim land for personal use to encourage the settlement of public lands and beginning in the 1870's small farms began to appear on the landscape in southern New Mexico.  Unfortunately the allotment size was not adequate to support farming in an arid climate and many small farm holdings in the desert southwest eventually failed with the land returning to cattle ranching (1).

316 acre Painted Pony Resort and Ranch 

Topographic overlay on satellite imagery showing building locations

The location of old fence lines and structures

old well next to the San Simon riverbed

interior of the 23' dug well

(1) Hadley, Diane. 2005. Landholding Systems and Resource Management in the Sky Island Borderlands.  USDA Forest Service Proceedings RMRS-P-36.  http://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs/rmrs_p036/rmrs_p036_015_025.pdf

Cultural Resource Inventory 1

While fencing the expansion of the Painted Pony Resort evidence of former inhabitants both historic and prehistoric came to light prompting the initiation of a cultural resource inventory of the property.  The goal of this resource inventory is to build and understanding of the various uses of the property through time and gain insight into those who used the land in the past. 

Geographical setting:
The Painted Pony Resort lies in the alluvial San Simon Valley along the San Simon Riverbed in southwestern New Mexico just north of Rodeo, New Mexico's most western town.  It is situated about 3 miles from the base of the Peloncillo mountains to the east and 6 miles from the base of the Chiricahua mountains to the west at an elevation of 4100' msl.  The Peloncillo mountains rise to an elevation of 6000' just east of the resort while Portal Peak in the Chiricahua mountains rises to over 8000'.  Antelope pass and access to valleys and mountain ranges to the east is located several miles north east of the estate.  Located at the confluence of an old drainage from Cave Creek Canyon and just downstream of the confluence of drainage from Sulphur Draw the San Simon riverbed runs through the center of the expanded estate.

Painted Pony Resort and the San Simon Riverbed

Portal Peak in the Chiricahua mountains

view of the Peloncillo mountains

Geological setting:
The land encompassed by the Painted Pony Resort lies on the alluvial San Simon valley floor in the basin and range province of the southwest. Both mountain ranges are composed of volcanic tuff interspersed with segments of limestone and intrusive granite at various points along their length, 1 and 2.

The mining history of the area includes prospects and mines at Granite Gap in the Peloncillo mountains and a number of mines in the Chiricahua mountains.  Recovering mostly base metals these mines are now abandoned.  The closest prospect to the Painted Pony Resort lies 2.5 miles to the east, known as the Purple Spar Prospect, a reference to flourite.

Hydrological setting:
The aquifer serving the San Simon valley around the Painted Pony Resort is composed of several units.  An upper alluvial aquifer, a lower aquifer separated by a lens of blue clay (bentonite).  This resulted in a pressurized artesien aquifer which fed several cienegas, one at the mouth of Cave Creek Canyon and the San Simon cienega, both now dry as the water pressure dropped.  The water table at the Painted Pony Resort lies at 110' below the surface, with 2 wells on the property both producing several gallons/minute for use.  The south well produces water with a temperature of about 100 degrees F.

Climate setting:
The climate in the high New Mexican desert is characterized by low precipitation, primarily occurring in the winter and late summer monsoon season, averaging about 20"/yr. While the temperatures are milder than lower elevations in the neighboring Sonoran desert summer temperatures may reach above 100 but cools rapidly after sunset.

Biological setting:
The San Simon Valley lies at the northern end of the Chihuahuan desert and the plant and animal communities reflect the desert environment, including Prong Horn antelope and Big Horn sheep.

1.  http://skywalker.cochise.edu/wellerr/geology-SEAZ/chiricahuas/Chiricahuas-list.htm
2.  http://geoinfo.nmt.edu/publications/bulletins/57/

Next: modern history of PPR.